Science
Mechanism of Action
This cationic (positively charged) molecule acts like a biological magnet, selectively attaching to damaged, negatively charged areas of the skin's surface. Once anchored, its isostearoyl lipid chain helps reconstruct the moisture-repelling barrier while the silk peptide backbone provides immediate softening and reduces transepidermal water loss.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 Clinical evaluation at 1.0% concentration demonstrated significant restoration of surface hydrophobicity and barrier integrity by mimicking the 18-MEA layer.
- 02 Comparative testing at 3.0% concentration showed superior skin-softening and moisture retention capabilities in leave-on applications compared to standard hydrolyzed silk.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is a complex, expensive specialty ingredient, it is often 'dusted' into formulas at fractions of a percent for label claims. However, clinical data suggests a minimum of 1.0% is required to effectively mimic the skin's natural lipid barrier.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Possesses amphiphilic properties due to its lipid-peptide structure, allowing for stable integration into both O/W and W/O emulsions. It remains highly stable within acidic to neutral pH ranges.
Synergies
- Ceramides
- Squalane
- Glycerin
Conflicts
- High concentrations of anionic surfactants
- Strongly alkaline environments (pH > 7.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Generally regarded as non-irritating; its components are well-documented in dermatological safety profiles.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional biomimetic ingredient for restoring the skin's protective 'F-layer' and providing a sophisticated, silky finish.
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References
Sources