Science
Mechanism of Action
As a fundamental skin-identical lipid, Ceramide 5 integrates directly into the stratum corneum, establishing a robust permeability barrier that significantly reduces transepidermal water loss. It actively enhances the adhesion between keratinocytes and forms a network capable of associating with water molecules, thereby improving skin hydration and minimizing desquamation. Furthermore, this ceramide participates in cellular processes such as recognition, growth, proliferation, and differentiation, contributing to the skin's overall health and potentially delaying signs of aging.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Insufficient-data confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The INCI name 'Ceramide 5' was designated with a retired status in 2014, having been replaced by 'Ceramide AS'. Data from 2014 indicated that Ceramide 5 was not actively in use in cosmetics, suggesting it is not commonly utilized in current formulations, thus limiting the risk of dusting.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Ceramide 5 is a lipophilic ingredient, requiring dispersion in oil or lipid phases of an emulsion. Optimal stability is achieved within a pH range of 4.5 to 6.5. Due to its general heat sensitivity, it should ideally be incorporated into formulations at temperatures of 40°C or lower to prevent potential degradation, although some specialized complexes may tolerate up to 80°C.
Conflicts
- Cationic emulsions (may interfere with ceramide complex structures)
- Highly acidic environments (pH below 4.5)
- Highly alkaline environments (pH above 6.5)
- Mismatched solubility leading to formulation instability and phase separation
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has consistently concluded that ceramides, including the retired 'Ceramide 5', are safe for cosmetic use under current practices and concentrations. This assessment assumes the ceramides are not derived from bovine central nervous system tissues. The official INCI designation for this ceramide was updated to 'Ceramide AS' in 2014.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Ceramide 5, functionally known as Ceramide AS, is an essential skin-identical lipid that is fundamental for maintaining a healthy skin barrier, optimal hydration, and overall skin vitality.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…