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Moumoujus

CASTORYL MALEATE.

Valuable CAS 241153-84-4 / SKIN CONDITIONING

A sophisticated, biomimetic ester derived from castor oil that functions as a high-performance skin conditioning agent. It is specifically designed to replenish the skin's lipid supply, making it a critical component for maintaining barrier integrity in both leave-on and rinse-off formulations.

Summary

Biomimetic Emollient Skin Conditioning Agent Barrier Repair Film-Former Surfactant Mitigator

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates as a lipid analogue, mimicking the structural properties of the stratum corneum’s natural lipids, such as ceramides and cholesterol. Upon application, it integrates into the skin's lipid matrix to reinforce the moisture barrier and forms a breathable, lightweight film that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while buffering the skin against irritation from surfactants.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 2023 study published in the International Journal of Research in Dermatology observed that a 2-week regimen using a cleanser with Castoryl Maleate resulted in a 63.38% reduction in dryness and a 65.58% decrease in skin irritation (p<0.0001).
  2. 02 Clinical data from Ashland Care Specialties validates its efficacy in providing long-acting moisturization and barrier repair specifically from rinse-off delivery systems like facial and hand washes.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

Castoryl Maleate is effective at relatively low concentrations (starting at 0.5%). While not a common target for 'label dusting,' consumers should look for its inclusion in the mid-section of the ingredient list in cleansers to ensure the clinical barrier-protection benefits are realized.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 2 – 12
0 7 14

Stability

Maintains stability across an impressively wide pH range (2–12). However, it is sensitive to moisture and extreme thermal stress, which can trigger hydrolysis; formulations must be processed and stored under controlled conditions.

Synergies

  • Anionic surfactants
  • Ceramides
  • Fatty acids
  • Glycerin

Conflicts

  • Strong acids
  • Strong bases
  • Oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While ECHA classifies the raw material as a Category 1 sensitizer, clinical trials and CIR assessments confirm it is non-irritating and safe at the concentrations typically utilized in cosmetic products (up to 5%).

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An essential ingredient for dry and sensitive skin types, providing unique lipid-replacement benefits that survive the rinsing process.

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