Science
Mechanism of Action
The extract functions as a high-performance antioxidant via epicatechin and procyanidin B2, which neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS). It further improves skin architecture by stimulating collagen production in fibroblasts and inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme to modulate melanin synthesis for a brighter, more even complexion.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence2.5%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro evaluation (US Patent 20140154195A1) demonstrates significant tyrosinase inhibition and collagen fibroblast stimulation at concentrations between 0.31% and 2.5%.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While this extract is often listed at very low concentrations for label claims, molecular efficacy for collagen support and brightening begins at 0.31%. Formulations utilizing less than this amount may only provide basic antioxidant protection.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in aqueous and water-glycol systems. Due to the natural polyphenol content, formulations may undergo slight color shifts if exposed to UV light or temperatures exceeding 40°C for extended periods.
Synergies
- Ascorbic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Peptides
Conflicts
- strong oxidizing agents
- high pH environments (>8.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
While the 2010 CIR notice indicated insufficient data, its long-term widespread use in the East Asian cosmetic market and low irritancy profile suggest a high safety margin at typical formulation levels.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A versatile and gentle botanical active that effectively targets both oxidative damage and loss of elasticity when formulated at precise concentrations.
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