Get a Free 5ml Mini Now Free 5ml Mini With Every Order of The Mantle
Moumoujus

CASTANOPSIS CUSPIDATA LEAF EXTRACT.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

A sophisticated botanical extract derived from the Japanese evergreen oak, engineered by nature to provide intensive photoprotection and pigment regulation. It utilizes a high concentration of ellagitannins to reinforce the skin's structural integrity while actively promoting cellular clarity through melanin autophagy.

Summary

Antioxidant MMP Inhibitor Skin Brightener Collagen Booster

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract operates through four distinct biological pathways: it inhibits Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP-9) to prevent collagen breakdown, neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS) via castanopsinins A-H, suppresses the MITF/CREB/PKA melanogenic signaling cascade to inhibit tyrosinase, and stimulates autophagy to degrade existing intracellular melanin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–1%
Optimal

0.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vitro evaluation (NIH, 2023) confirmed significant MMP-9 reduction and increased collagen accumulation in HaCaT keratinocytes following UVB exposure.
  2. 02 Cellular analysis (Antioxidants, 2023) demonstrated that ethyl gallate within the extract provides 37.9% tyrosinase inhibition, outperforming traditional arbutin at similar concentrations.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

Due to its high cost and potent in vitro results at microgram levels, many formulations include this extract at trace amounts (below 0.05%) for marketing purposes. Authentic therapeutic efficacy for collagen protection and brightening requires concentrations between 0.5% and 1.0%.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

The extract is prone to darkening if exposed to light or air due to its high tannin content; airless packaging is recommended. High stability is maintained in aqueous systems within standard physiological pH ranges.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide (complementary pigment pathway inhibition)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (enhances delivery of water-soluble polyphenols)
  • Vitamin C (synergistic antioxidant network)

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Iron salts (causes dark complexation with tannins)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
1%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

No significant adverse reactions reported in current literature; however, as a botanical complex, a patch test is recommended for those with specific plant sensitivities.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptionally promising multi-functional botanical that excels in protecting collagen and inhibiting hyperpigmentation through pathways more effective than standard arbutin.

Related

Similar Ingredients

Finding similar ingredients…

References

Sources