Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient utilizes a dual-action approach: it acts as a high-performance scavenger of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitric oxide to neutralize oxidative damage, while its high tannin content exerts an astringent effect that tightens pores and stabilizes skin proteins. Furthermore, it inhibits matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) to prevent the enzymatic degradation of the collagen matrix and supports a balanced skin microbiome.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence55%
Key findings
- 01 An 8-week in vivo study demonstrated a 31.76% increase in skin firmness in 50% of participants, alongside a measurable rise in hydration levels from 54.00 to 58.62 A.U.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its high efficacy in clinical trials at larger concentrations (up to 55%), many commercial products include it at 'label claim' levels (under 0.5%) where its antioxidant benefits are minimal and its firming properties are virtually non-existent.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maximum stability and antioxidant activity are achieved at pH 5.0. It is highly thermolabile and should not be processed at temperatures exceeding 40°C.
Synergies
- Glycerin
- O/W Emulsions
- UV Filters
Conflicts
- High pH environments (>7.0)
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High-heat manufacturing processes
Safety
Safety Profile
Considered safe and non-cytotoxic to human keratinocytes and fibroblasts at concentrations used in topical applications. Patch tests confirm it is non-irritating.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An excellent multifunctional ingredient for combined firming and antioxidant protection, provided it is formulated at the correct pH and concentration.
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References
Sources