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CARBOXYMETHYL HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR.

Valuable CAS 68130-15-4 / BINDING, EMULSION STABILISING, GEL FORMING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A sophisticated, plant-derived anionic polymer engineered to provide both structural integrity to formulas and a protective biological shield for the skin. It bridges the gap between a high-performance texture enhancer and a functional moisture-locking film former.

Viscosity controlling Gelling agent Film forming Bio-adhesive Sustained release carrier

Science

This modified polysaccharide functions by mimicking the skin's natural mucin layer, creating a cross-linked, bio-adhesive gel matrix. This network stabilizes the skin's hydration layer while acting as a reservoir that facilitates the sustained, controlled release of active ingredients over time.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 2–2.5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated a 25.66% cumulative active release over 6 hours, outperforming traditional HPMC in topical delivery (Pasha & Swamy, 2010).
  2. 02 Achieved a high pseudoplastic index of 3.383, indicating superior rheological stability and 'drug-keeping' properties compared to sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (Pasha & Swamy, 2008).

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

While frequently used at low concentrations (under 1%) as a simple thickener, using it at 'dusting' levels (<0.1%) fails to utilize its clinically validated film-forming and sustained-release benefits which typically emerge at 2% or higher.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits exceptional thermal stability compared to native guar. It maintains structural integrity across a wide pH range, though viscosity may degrade in extreme environments below pH 2.0 or above pH 12.0.

Synergies

  • Water-soluble actives requiring controlled release
  • Glycerin
  • Hyaluronic acid

Conflicts

  • High electrolyte or salt concentrations
  • Polyvalent metal ions (Borates, Zirconates, Titanates)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
93%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The 2012 CIR Expert Panel confirmed its safety; while used up to 93% in hair care, its use in precision skincare is typically concentrated below 3% for optimal rheology.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional rheology modifier that doubles as a functional delivery system, providing superior active penetration and skin protection compared to standard gelling agents.


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