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CARBOXYMETHYL CHITOSAN.

Valuable CAS 83512-85-0 / FILM FORMING, GEL FORMING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A sophisticated, water-soluble biopolymer derived from chitin that functions as a high-performance moisture binder and protective film-former. It bridges the gap between traditional humectants and advanced regenerative care by promoting barrier repair and antioxidant defense.

Humectant Film-former Antioxidant Wound-healing accelerator Viscosity-controlling agent

Science

This ingredient operates as an amphoteric polyelectrolyte, constructing a breathable, semi-permeable lattice on the skin's surface. This structure utilizes carboxyl and amino groups to secure hydration through intermolecular hydrogen bonding—rivaling hyaluronic acid in prolonged retention—while simultaneously providing antimicrobial protection and stimulating fibroblast activity to accelerate structural tissue repair.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.25–5%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 0.25% aqueous solution demonstrated moisture retention capacity equivalent to a 20% propylene glycol solution.
  2. 02 At a 0.5% concentration, it exhibited significantly higher moisturizing efficacy than standard glycols within 30 minutes of application.
  3. 03 Higher 5.0% hydrogel concentrations significantly accelerated re-epithelialization and wound contraction in clinical models.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.25%
Red flag below
0.1%

Because Carboxymethyl Chitosan shows measurable moisture retention at just 0.25%, brands often include it at trace amounts (<0.1%) to claim 'chitosan' on the label without achieving the film-forming or regenerative benefits seen in higher-dose clinical data.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

Highly soluble across a broad pH range compared to native chitosan; however, it remains sensitive to extreme thermal shifts and prolonged UV exposure.

Synergies

  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Ceramides
  • Glycerin

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Strong reducing agents
  • Strong acids
  • Strong alkalis

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Generally recognized as biocompatible and non-toxic. However, individuals with severe shellfish allergies should exercise caution as it is typically sourced from crustacean chitin.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance multifunctional biopolymer that excels in moisture retention and barrier recovery, outperforming many common synthetics at low concentrations.


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