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CARBOXYMETHYL CHITIN.

Valuable CAS 52108-64-2 / GEL FORMING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A high-performance derivative of natural chitin engineered for superior water solubility and bio-affinity. This multifunctional biopolymer serves as a sophisticated moisture-locking agent and structural support for the skin's natural repair processes.

humectant film-forming viscosity controlling skin-soothing barrier-protection

Science

It functions as an anionic polyelectrolyte, creating a breathable, semi-permeable film that significantly inhibits trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). At a molecular level, its dense array of carboxyl and hydroxyl groups captures and binds water molecules, while its biological activity stimulates macrophage activation and fibroblast proliferation to support collagen synthesis.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.25–1%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 0.25% concentration demonstrated moisture retention equivalent to 20% propylene glycol (Xiao et al., 2002).
  2. 02 0.5% high molecular weight application significantly outperformed pure chitosan and propylene glycol in skin hydration metrics (MDPI, 2020).
  3. 03 1.0% identified as the peak concentration for balancing formula viscosity with antioxidant and antibacterial efficacy (Chaiwong et al., 2023).

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.25%
Red flag below
0.1%

Because it shows measurable humectant properties at just 0.25%, brands often include it at trace amounts (<0.1%) to claim 'chitin' benefits on the label without achieving the 0.5-1.0% levels required for significant barrier repair and stabilization.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Optimal stability is achieved in slightly acidic to neutral environments (pH 4.0–6.0). Avoid highly acidic conditions (pH < 3.0) to prevent polymer precipitation.

Synergies

  • Antioxidants
  • Humectants
  • Barrier lipids

Conflicts

  • Cationic surfactants
  • Polyquaterniums
  • Highly positively charged actives
  • High electrolyte/salt concentrations

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
2.5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Classified as non-toxic and biodegradable; it is traditionally well-tolerated even in sensitive skin applications.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptionally efficient humectant and film-former that provides pharmaceutical-grade hydration and wound-healing support at low concentrations.


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