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Moumoujus

CARBOMER/PAPAIN CROSSPOLYMER.

Valuable CAS 1203594-64-2 / VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A high-performance enzymatic complex that marries the exfoliating power of papaya-derived papain with a specialized polymer matrix. This stabilized delivery system ensures controlled release of the enzyme, offering a sophisticated alternative to traditional acid-based exfoliation.

Summary

Proteolytic Exfoliant Skin Brightener Texture Refiner Viscosity Modifier

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as a precision proteolytic agent. By specifically targeting and breaking the peptide bonds within desmosomes—the protein structures that act as the 'glue' between surface skin cells—it facilitates a uniform and gentle shedding of dead cells. The carbomer cross-linking prevents the enzyme from penetrating too deeply, ensuring skin renewal remains localized to the stratum corneum without disrupting the deeper moisture barrier.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–3%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 In-vivo testing demonstrated a significant improvement in skin luminosity and smoothness after 21 days of consistent use.
  2. 02 Clinical evaluation of 29 subjects confirmed that a 1% concentration delivers high-intensity exfoliation without the typical erythema associated with chemical peels.
  3. 03 A single overnight application was shown to yield measurable gains in immediate skin radiance.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because it is an expensive stabilized enzyme system (often marketed as X-pressin™ C), brands frequently include it at 'label claim' amounts (below 0.5%) where it serves as a marketing term rather than a functional exfoliant. At least 1% is required to achieve the clinical results for smoothing and brightening.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Extremely temperature-sensitive; must be formulated during the cool-down phase below 40°C. Maintaining a pH between 5.0 and 7.0 is critical for enzymatic survival and activity.

Synergies

  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Glycerin
  • Niacinamide

Conflicts

  • High Heat (>40°C)
  • Sodium Chloride (Salts)
  • High-shear homogenization
  • Cationic surfactants
  • Strong acids (pH <4.0)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed as a complex; constituents (Carbomer/Papain) are reviewed.
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While raw papain powder is a respiratory irritant for manufacturers, the crosspolymer in finished skincare is considered non-irritating and safe for topical use.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A superior, non-irritating alternative to AHAs for sensitive skin types seeking precision exfoliation and immediate luminosity.

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