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CARBOCYSTEINE.

Valuable CAS 638-23-3 / ANTI-SEBUM, SKIN CONDITIONING

A specialized amino acid derivative that functions as both a mucoregulatory agent and a structural modifier for the skin's protein matrix. It is particularly effective for normalizing sebum production in oily complexions and enhancing the elasticity of stretched or scarred tissue.

anti-sebum skin conditioning antioxidant anti-inflammatory

Science

Carbocysteine utilizes thiol-disulfide interchange to modulate protein structures, breaking down disulfide bonds to increase tissue pliability. In sebaceous glands, it regulates mucus-like secretions to balance oil production, while also providing antioxidant protection by inhibiting NF-κB and MAPK signaling pathways to reduce inflammatory stress.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Topical application twice daily for 8 weeks demonstrated significant improvements in the thickness and relief of striae distensae (stretch marks).
  2. 02 Clinical data indicates high efficacy in regulating sebum secretion and reducing surface oiliness in seborrheic and acne-prone skin conditions.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because it is often associated with high-performance sebum control and medical-grade stretch mark repair, it is frequently included at sub-clinical levels (<1%) for marketing claims without providing the structural 'pliability' benefits seen at the 1-5% range.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 6.2 – 6.8
0 7 14

Stability

Highly pH-sensitive; it degrades rapidly into a lactam if the formulation drops below pH 5.0. While its base solubility in pure water is low, it forms highly soluble salts in slightly alkaline environments.

Synergies

  • Chelating agents (EDTA)
  • Soothing antioxidants
  • Oil-balancing minerals

Conflicts

  • Low pH environments (<5.0)
  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Unchelated metal ions

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Topical absorption is limited, and it is not considered a phototoxin. It should not be confused with Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine, which is a hair-straightening agent that may release formaldehyde under high heat.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-precision ingredient for targeted oil control and structural skin repair, provided the formulation maintains a stable pH above 6.0.


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