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CAPSELLA BURSA-PASTORIS EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 84604-19-3 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Commonly known as Shepherd's Purse, this botanical extract serves as a multi-targeted biological shield against inflammation and oxidative stress. It is particularly effective for reactive complexions, utilizing a unique ability to interrupt cellular distress signals before they manifest as visible redness or irritation.

anti-inflammatory soothing antioxidant brightening antimicrobial

Science

This extract operates through a four-fold biological pathway: it inhibits pro-inflammatory 'pyroptosis' (programmed cell death) by suppressing MAPK and NF-κB signaling, neutralizes nitric oxide and reactive oxygen species via its flavonoid content, provides antimicrobial defense through specialized peptides called shepherins, and limits melanin synthesis by interfering with tyrosinase activity.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.0001–2%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vivo testing of a 2.0% active complex demonstrated significant clinical reductions in facial redness and capillary blood flow through pyroptosis pathway targeting.
  2. 02 In vitro analysis at 100.0 µg/mL showed a 65% inhibition of PGE2 and marked suppression of inflammatory cytokines TNF-α and IL-6.
  3. 03 Concentration-dependent radical scavenging reached an EC25 of 0.2 µg/mL against Nitric Oxide radicals.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.1%

While potent at micro-levels for antioxidant protection, clinical results for redness reduction and anti-inflammatory relief are typically tied to concentrations near 2.0%. Formulations using it at 'label-only' concentrations (<0.1%) likely fail to trigger the pyroptosis-inhibiting benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

The extract is thermostable up to 60°C; however, encapsulation in liposomes is recommended to enhance the penetration of its sensitive flavonoid profile.

Synergies

  • Vitamin C (stabilizes antioxidant activity)
  • Niacinamide (complementary barrier support)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (carrier for water-soluble phenolic compounds)

Conflicts

  • Strongly alkaline environments (pH > 12)
  • Cationic surfactants

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Recognized as GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) by the FDA for food use, indicating a high safety profile for topical application.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional botanical for precision soothing and redness reduction, provided it is formulated at active concentrations rather than trace amounts.


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References