Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates through a bipartite mechanism: its capryloyl lipid chain disrupts the cellular membranes of acne-causing bacteria (C. acnes) and fungal pathogens (Malassezia), while its silk amino acid core acts as a humectant to bind moisture. Additionally, it aids in regulating follicular sebum flow and provides a tactile 'soft focus' finish to the skin surface.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 Clinical evaluations conducted by Laboratoires ASEPTA demonstrate significant inhibition of S. aureus and C. acnes at concentrations between 1% and 2%.
- 02 Dermatological assessments of patented 2% formulations confirm a measurable reduction in surface sebum and enhanced skin suppleness.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is a patented specialty ester often marketed for its premium silk origins, it is frequently used at 'claim' levels (below 0.1%) in mass-market products. To achieve true microbiome-balancing and sebum-regulating benefits, it must be formulated at 1% or higher.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in standard conditions but vulnerable to ester hydrolysis if exposed to highly acidic (pH <4) or alkaline (pH >8) environments.
Synergies
- Salicylic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Glycerin
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Extreme pH adjusters
Safety
Safety Profile
While a specific CIR report is pending, its constituent parts—Caprylic Acid and Silk Amino Acids—have extensive safety profiles in cosmetic use.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional multi-tasking active for blemish-prone yet dehydrated skin, providing targeted antimicrobial action without compromising the skin barrier.
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References
Sources