Science
Mechanism of Action
It targets the enzymatic pathway of oil production by inhibiting 5-alpha reductase, the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone into DHT, which triggers excess sebum. Beyond oil control, its anionic structure allows it to disrupt microbial cell membranes and act as a skin-conditioning surfactant.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated inhibition of 5-alpha reductase for significant sebum regulation and pore size reduction at 1-2%.
- 02 Broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity confirmed at 0.5% concentration.
- 03 Human repeat-insult patch tests (HRIPT) confirmed no sensitization or irritation at concentrations up to 5%.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While this ingredient is effective as a preservative at 0.5%, its primary clinical benefits for oil regulation and pore refinement require concentrations between 1% and 2%. Formulations claiming sebum control at concentrations below 1% may be 'dusting' the ingredient for marketing purposes.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable across a pH range of 3.0–8.0, though it demonstrates peak antimicrobial and anti-sebum efficacy within the slightly acidic to neutral range (3.0–7.0).
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Salicylic Acid
- Zinc PCA
Conflicts
- Nitrosating agents (e.g., Sodium Nitrite, Bronopol)
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Cationic surfactants
Safety
Safety Profile
Must not be used in formulations containing nitrosating agents due to the risk of forming N-nitroso compounds.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A sophisticated, multifunctional amino acid derivative that offers precise oil control and antimicrobial benefits with an excellent safety profile for all skin types.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…