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Moumoujus

CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID.

Valuable CAS 70424-62-3 / SKIN CONDITIONING

A sophisticated lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid, also known as Lipo-Hydroxy Acid (LHA), designed for ultra-precise skin surface renewal. It offers a slower, more controlled penetration compared to traditional BHAs, making it an ideal exfoliating agent for maintaining barrier integrity while targeting imperfections.

Summary

Exfoliant Soothing agent Anti-microbial Anti-aging Blemish control

Science

Mechanism of Action

As a lipophilic molecule, it targets the lipid-rich intercellular cement between skin cells. It works by weakening the corneodesmosomes (the bonds between corneocytes), facilitating a 'cell-by-cell' exfoliation process rather than a massive sheet-like shedding. Its large molecular size ensures it remains primarily in the stratum corneum, providing anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits with minimal deep-tissue irritation.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–10%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical comparisons demonstrate that 5-10% LHA peels match the efficacy of 20-50% Glycolic Acid in treating hyperpigmentation and fine lines with significantly higher tolerability.
  2. 02 A 2% concentration has been shown to produce reparative effects on photoaged skin comparable to 0.05% Retinoic Acid, specifically in correcting epidermal atrophy.
  3. 03 Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT) confirm that concentrations up to 2% are non-sensitizing to the skin.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.2%
Red flag below
0.1%

While often included in formulations for marketing 'LHA' claims, therapeutic benefits for blemish control and photo-aging are typically observed at concentrations between 0.5% and 2.0%. Use below 0.2% is likely for label appeal rather than functional exfoliation.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 4
0 7 14

Stability

Requires an acidic environment (pH 3-4) to remain stable and prevent the hydrolysis of its ester linkage. Should be stored in light-protected, airtight containers to prevent degradation.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide
  • Glycerin
  • Retinoids

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Insufficient data
Max tested
0.5%
Sensitization risk Low

While the CIR Expert Panel requested more data on phototoxicity, the ingredient is widely utilized in leave-on products up to 0.5%. It is generally regarded as much gentler than its parent, Salicylic Acid.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptional precision exfoliant that delivers retinoic-acid-like results for photoaging and effective blemish control with a superior safety profile for sensitive skin.

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