Science
Mechanism of Action
By forming a microscopic, breathable film, this ingredient smoothens the skin's texture and prevents trans-epidermal water loss. Upon application, it is believed to be enzymatically processed by the skin into caprylic acid and amino acids, which serve as bio-available building blocks for the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro assessments of related amino acid amides at concentrations near 2% demonstrated zero dermal irritation, highlighting the inherent mildness of this molecular structure.
- 02 Human clinical trials conducted at levels up to 7.38% confirmed the ingredient is both non-sensitizing and non-irritating for topical use.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it functions as a film-former and skin-conditioner, many brands include it at negligible amounts (under 0.5%) for 'label claim' benefits. For noticeable improvements in skin texture and hydration support, concentrations between 2% and 7% are recommended.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maintains high stability under standard storage conditions; however, formulation temperatures should remain below 100°C to prevent the thermal degradation of delicate peptide bonds.
Synergies
- Humectants
- Non-ionic surfactants
- Ceramides
Conflicts
- Cationic surfactants
- Quaternary ammonium compounds
Safety
Safety Profile
While the CIR permits up to 45% in rinse-off applications, leave-on precision skincare typically caps this ingredient at 10% to ensure optimal sensory performance and non-irritancy.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An excellent biocompatible conditioner that supports the skin's natural barrier without risk of irritation or pore blockage.
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