Science
Mechanism of Action
This amphiphilic molecule combines a lipophilic capryloyl chain with hydrophilic hydrolyzed collagen. The lipid component facilitates superior skin affinity and offers mild antimicrobial defense, while the collagen portion creates a non-occlusive film on the stratum corneum. This dual action effectively anchors moisture to the skin surface, significantly reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and neutralizing surface static charge.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated efficacy as a skin-smoothing and conditioning agent at concentrations between 0.1% and 5.0%, improving surface texture and film-forming resilience.
- 02 Research indicates that at levels of 0.5-1.0%, it exhibits synergistic antimicrobial activity, particularly against S. aureus and S. epidermidis, enhancing the efficacy of cleansing and preservative systems.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because this ingredient provides measurable conditioning and antistatic benefits at levels as low as 0.1%, it is rarely 'dusted'; however, for antimicrobial synergy or significant moisture retention, concentrations should ideally reach or exceed 0.5%.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Most stable within the physiological pH range (5.0-7.0). It is sensitive to extreme pH levels; values below 4.0 or above 9.0 may trigger peptide bond hydrolysis or precipitation at its isoelectric point.
Synergies
- Antimicrobial agents
- Other Lipoamino acids
- Humectants
Conflicts
- High electrolyte concentrations (salting out risk)
- Strongly acidic environments (< pH 4.0)
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
Classified under the safety umbrella of Acylated Amino Acids and Hydrolyzed Proteins. It is highly biocompatible with a low risk profile in standard cosmetic applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An sophisticated, biocompatible film-former that provides essential moisture retention and surface smoothing while supporting the skin's microbiome.
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References
Sources