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Moumoujus

Capric/PCA Glycerides.

Valuable CAS 85290-22-8 / ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING

A sophisticated biomimetic emollient that bridges the gap between traditional oil-based occlusion and advanced humectancy. It utilizes a dual-action structure to simultaneously reinforce the lipid barrier while replenishing the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).

Summary

Emollient Humectant Refatting agent Skin-conditioning agent Sensory enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as an amphiphilic ester, meaning it interacts with both oil and water components of the skin. The capric fatty acid chain integrates into the intercellular lipids to reduce Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), while the PCA (Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) moiety acts as a humectant to bind moisture within the stratum corneum, providing a 'silicone-like' finish without the use of synthetics.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Manufacturer technical data indicates a significant reduction in TEWL and measurable elasticity improvements at concentrations between 1-5%.
  2. 02 Industrial application guides highlight its efficacy as a refatting agent at 2% to prevent post-wash dryness in surfactant-based systems.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because it significantly impacts the sensory profile (the 'feel') of a formula even at low levels, it is rarely 'dusted' for marketing; however, concentrations below 1% may not provide the full barrier-repair benefits seen in clinical data.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable in standard emulsions but susceptible to hydrolysis in extreme pH environments (below 3.0 or above 9.0).

Synergies

  • Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
  • Glycerin
  • Ceramides

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly alkaline formulations

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While the specific ester is assessed individually, its components (PCA and Capric Glycerides) have long-standing safety profiles established by the CIR.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptional multifunctional ingredient for precision moisture management, particularly effective in preventing the 'stripped' feeling often associated with cleansing.

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