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CAPRIC ACID.

Valuable CAS 334-48-5 / CLEANSING, FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A refined medium-chain fatty acid (C10) that serves as a multi-functional lipidic agent, bridging the gap between deep cleansing and barrier support. It is prized in precision skincare for its ability to smooth the skin's surface while simultaneously providing targeted antimicrobial benefits.

Surfactant Emollient Antimicrobial Penetration Enhancer

Science

Capric Acid functions through a dual-action pathway: it acts as a biomimetic emollient by integrating into the intercellular lipid matrix to smooth texture, and as a potent antimicrobial agent by penetrating the lipid membranes of pathogens like P. acnes, leading to membrane fluidization and cell lysis. Additionally, it serves as a temporary penetration enhancer by modulating the skin's barrier permeability to facilitate the delivery of co-formulated actives.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–10%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vitro and in vivo models indicate significant reduction in IL-6 and IL-8 cytokines, demonstrating anti-inflammatory properties against acne-causing bacteria (Tsai et al., 2013).
  2. 02 Recent formulation data suggests that concentrations up to 10% in specific delivery systems maintain high stability and enhance skin permeation without triggering irritation (2025).

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

While often used as a secondary surfactant or emollient at low levels, clinical benefits for acne-prone skin require at least 1%. Use below 0.5% in 'active' claims suggests it is being used for formulation stability rather than therapeutic skin benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Heat-sensitive during the emulsification phase; requires temperature-controlled processing. Prone to oxidation if exposed to prolonged light or air.

Synergies

  • Lauric Acid
  • Glycerin
  • Natural Eutectic Solvents

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly alkaline environments
  • Specific cationic surfactants

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While its triglyceride form is used at near-100% concentrations, the free fatty acid is capped at 5% in leave-on products by the CIR to prevent potential irritancy.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance lipid that offers a strategic balance of antimicrobial protection and texture refinement for non-sensitive skin types.


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References