Science
Mechanism of Action
As a zwitterionic surfactant, it carries both positive and negative charges, allowing it to organize into mixed micelles when paired with anionic cleansers. This molecular arrangement physically shields the skin from the aggressive protein denaturation typically caused by harsh surfactants, while its C18-dominant lipid chain provides superior emolliency and viscosity-building compared to shorter-chain sultaines.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Zein solubility tests (2023) confirmed 0% increase in protein denaturation at 1% solids, demonstrating significantly lower irritation potential than standard surfactants.
- 02 Technical analysis shows superior viscosity-building and salt-response improvements in sulfate-free systems compared to C12-C14 sultaine counterparts.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a functional surfactant and viscosity builder, it is typically used at levels above 1% to achieve the desired foam and texture; levels below this in a primary cleanser may indicate it is being used for 'label claim' regarding its hemp derivation.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Exhibits robust stability across a wide pH spectrum (2.0–12.0) and maintains integrity at processing temperatures up to 90°C.
Synergies
- Anionic surfactants
- Sulfate-free cleansing bases
- Cationic conditioning agents
Conflicts
- None reported
Safety
Safety Profile
Categorized under the broader CIR safety umbrella for amidopropyl betaines and sultaines; it is readily biodegradable and free of Prop 65 listed contaminants.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An elite, low-irritation surfactant that bridges the gap between effective cleansing and skin-barrier protection through its unique hemp-based lipid profile.
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