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Moumoujus

CANDIDA BOMBICOLA/RAPESEED SEED OIL FERMENT EXTRACT.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

A biotechnologically derived glycolipid biosurfactant produced through the yeast fermentation of rapeseed oil. This high-precision ferment acts as a sophisticated antimicrobial and sebum-balancing agent, offering a natural alternative to synthetic surfactants while simultaneously supporting the skin's structural integrity.

Summary

Antimicrobial Sebum Regulator Collagen Stimulant Biosurfactant Antioxidant

Science

Mechanism of Action

Functioning as a sophorolipid, it selectively disrupts the cell membranes of targeted Gram-positive bacteria such as C. acnes and S. aureus without harming the broader microbiome. It further regulates oily skin by inhibiting the 5-alpha reductase enzyme to control sebum production, provides potent antioxidant protection by neutralizing approximately 80% of reactive oxidative species (ROS), and stimulates dermal fibroblasts to promote collagen neosynthesis.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.015–2%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 0.015% concentration demonstrated effective inhibition of Propionibacterium acnes (C. acnes) via Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) testing.
  2. 02 0.083% concentration stimulates fibroblast metabolism, inducing the in vitro neosynthesis of collagen fibers.
  3. 03 0.05% concentration effectively inhibits Corynebacterium xerosis to mask and prevent body odor development.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.015%
Red flag below
0.01%

Because this ingredient exhibits significant antimicrobial activity at extremely low thresholds (as low as 0.015%), it is rarely 'dusted' in a way that renders it useless; however, concentrations below 0.01% may fail to provide the promised sebum-regulating or anti-acne benefits.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 2 – 12
0 7 14

Stability

Exceptional thermal stability up to 100°C and across a vast pH range. Antimicrobial performance is optimized at a slightly acidic pH of approximately 5.0, where it functions non-ionically.

Synergies

  • Salicylic Acid
  • Niacinamide
  • Non-ionic surfactants

Conflicts

  • High concentrations of cationic polymers
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Insufficient data (2024)
Max tested
2%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While the 2024 CIR report noted insufficient data for a full yeast-derived safety determination, the ingredient is widely regarded as a low-hazard, non-irritating biosurfactant in global markets.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A highly efficient, multi-functional ferment that excels at microbiome management and oil control even at fractional percentages.

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