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CANANGA ODORATA LEAF OIL.

Valuable CAS 83863-30-3 / 8006-81-3 / 68606-83-7 / FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING

A refined botanical extract derived from the leaves of the Ylang Ylang tree, characterized by a higher concentration of sesquiterpenes than the flower-derived alternative. It functions as a dual-action lipid stabilizer and antioxidant, specifically targeting oxidative stress and sebum irregularity.

Antioxidant Antimicrobial Sebum Regulator Fragrance Masking

Science

The oil's primary terpenes—specifically linalool, beta-caryophyllene, and germacrene D—permeate the stratum corneum to modulate inflammatory pathways and balance the skin's lipid profile. It neutralizes reactive oxygen species through an EC50 radical scavenging activity of 19.5 μg/mL, while its aromatic esters provide natural masking properties.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.4–1%
Optimal

0.4%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vivo testing of 0.4-1.0% Cananga nanoemulgels demonstrated a sebum reduction from 26.75 to 5.67 mg/cm² and a hydration increase from 18.09 to 41.28 AU.
  2. 02 DPPH assays confirmed concentration-dependent antioxidant activity with an EC50 of 19.5 μg/mL.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.01%

In many formulations, this oil is included at negligible concentrations (below 0.01%) purely for its aromatic profile or label appeal. For meaningful sebum regulation or antioxidant protection, concentrations closer to the 0.4% safety limit are required.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6
0 7 14

Stability

Highly sensitive to light and oxygen; requires amber packaging. It remains stable during emulsification processes up to 85°C.

Synergies

  • Tocopherol
  • Carrier oils high in linoleic acid
  • Niacinamide (complementary sebum control)

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Strong acids
  • High-ethanol formulations (exacerbates irritation)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
0.4%
Sensitization risk Moderate

Safety is restricted by potential allergens like linalool and benzyl benzoate. EU compliance requires labeling if the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An effective botanical for oily and combination skin types that provides significant antioxidant defense when used at precise, non-sensitizing concentrations.


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