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CALCIUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE.

Valuable / ABSORBENT, EMULSION STABILISING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A technologically modified, hydrophobic starch derivative designed to optimize the sensory and functional profile of advanced topical formulations. It serves as a high-performance mattifying agent and texture refiner that significantly reduces the greasy residue associated with heavy emollients and UV filters.

Sebum Absorbent Texture Modifier Emulsion Stabilizer Mattifying Agent Viscosity Controller

Science

This ingredient utilizes chemically modified starch granules with a high surface area to physically entrap sebum and lipids on the skin's surface. Its hydrophobic nature allows it to scatter light, creating a soft-focus mattifying effect, while simultaneously acting as a structural stabilizer that increases viscosity and improves the glide of complex emulsions.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–30.5%
Optimal

6%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical assessments verified by the CIR (2018) demonstrate that concentrations as high as 30.5% exhibit negligible irritation and zero sensitization potential.
  2. 02 Studies indicate that inclusion levels between 1% and 6% provide significant SPF boosting properties and successfully mitigate the tackiness of sunscreen formulations.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

While primarily a functional texturizer, concentrations below 1% are unlikely to provide the characteristic 'dry-touch' or oil-absorbing benefits, suggesting a 'label-only' inclusion for oil-control claims.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable across a wide pH range (3–10). However, it may undergo acid-catalyzed hydrolysis if subjected to environments with a pH lower than 3.0, particularly at elevated temperatures.

Synergies

  • Chemical UV filters
  • Heavy botanical oils
  • Silicone elastomers

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Extreme acidic environments (pH < 3)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
30%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

With an average particle size of 13.5 µm, the ingredient is non-respirable, ensuring safety during application of powdered or aerosolized products.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A highly reliable functional ingredient that bridges the gap between high-efficacy formulations and elegant skin feel, particularly in sun care and oily skin protocols.


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References