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CAESALPINIA SAPPAN BARK EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 89958-14-5 / SKIN CONDITIONING

A multifunctional botanical bioactive derived from Sappan Wood, renowned for its potent antioxidant profile and natural reddish-amber pigment. It offers a sophisticated approach to skin defense by neutralizing oxidative stress while simultaneously addressing inflammatory pathways and microbial balance.

Antioxidant Skin Brightening Anti-inflammatory Anti-acne Natural Colorant Blue Light Protection

Science

The extract utilizes its primary neoflavonoid, Brazilin, to inhibit tyrosinase activity and neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS). It acts as a biological shield by downregulating pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β) and suppressing Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMP-2 and MMP-9) to prevent collagen fragmentation, while also upregulating antioxidant enzymes like GPX7 to mitigate UVA and blue light-induced cellular damage.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.2–2%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Concentrations as low as 20 µg/mL demonstrate free radical scavenging comparable to L-ascorbic acid.
  2. 02 A 1.0% concentration provides significant antibacterial efficacy against Cutibacterium acnes.
  3. 03 In-vitro models show a 76.82% reduction in cytotoxicity at 25 µg/mL, confirming high cytoprotective capacity.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

Often included at very low concentrations (under 0.1%) to serve as a natural colorant or marketing 'claim' ingredient. To achieve functional antioxidant or anti-acne benefits, concentrations should meet or exceed 0.5–1.0%.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Thermolabile; must be incorporated during the cool-down phase below 40°C. The natural pigment is pH-sensitive, shifting from red in acidic environments to purple in alkaline conditions.

Synergies

  • Sodium Phytate (chelating agent for color stability)
  • L-Ascorbic Acid (antioxidant synergy)
  • Niacinamide (barrier and brightening support)

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Alkaline environments (pH > 7.5)
  • High-temperature processing (> 45°C)

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
2%
Sensitization risk Low

While not officially reviewed by the CIR, it is widely utilized in Asian pharmacopeia and recognized by the EU CosIng and FDA VCRP for skin conditioning.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance botanical that bridges the gap between natural color science and precision antioxidant protection, particularly effective for acne-prone and environmentally stressed skin.


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