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C40-60 ACID.

Valuable CAS 222400-15-9 / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A high-molecular-weight synthetic fatty acid that functions as a sophisticated structural architect for skincare emulsions. It creates a breathable, crystalline network on the skin surface to lock in moisture while providing superior formula stability.

Occlusive agent Rheology modifier Film former Emulsion stabilizer Viscosity controller

Science

This long-chain saturated acid organizes into a hydrophobic crystalline matrix within the oil phase of a product. Upon application, it deposits a persistent yet non-occlusive film that significantly lowers transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and shields the cutaneous barrier from airborne environmental pollutants.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 16-week clinical evaluation utilizing concentrations between 1.0% and 5.0% demonstrated its efficacy as a foundational vehicle in anti-aging topicals, facilitating significant reductions in fine lines and hyperpigmentation when paired with targeted active inhibitors.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because it is primarily used for its rheological and film-forming properties, concentrations below 1.0% are often insufficient to provide the structural integrity required for its protective barrier functions.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits exceptional oxidative stability due to its fully saturated structure. Requires high-temperature processing (80°C–100°C) to melt and integrate into the oil phase.

Synergies

  • MMP inhibitors
  • Lipophilic antioxidants
  • Mineral UV filters

Conflicts

  • Strong bases (risk of saponification)
  • Highly polar aqueous systems without robust emulsifiers

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Its significant molecular weight prevents it from penetrating the dermis, ensuring it remains on the surface and carries negligible risk of systemic toxicity.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An essential structural component for creating high-performance barrier creams and stable, elegant oil-phase formulations.


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References