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C30-50 ALKYL/OCTYLDODECYL CITRATE.

Valuable

A high-performance specialty ester that functions as a structural emollient and film-former. It is engineered to stabilize pigment dispersions and enhance the performance of solar filters while providing a creamy, sophisticated texture to anhydrous formulations.

Emollient Film Former Skin Conditioning Agent Texture Enhancer

Science

This large-molecule citrate ester creates a flexible, hydrophobic shield over the stratum corneum. By forming this breathable barrier, it effectively minimizes transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and anchors active ingredients or pigments to the skin's surface, ensuring long-wear durability and uniform distribution.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–10%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Application at 1-5% demonstrates a significant increase in UV filter uniformity, leading to improved SPF values and enhanced water resistance.
  2. 02 Concentrations of 5-10% serve as structural stabilizers in stick formulations, preventing oil syneresis (sweating) and ensuring a consistent, creamy application.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Typically used as a functional structural component rather than a marketing claim; however, concentrations below 1% may be insufficient to provide the necessary film-forming or stabilizing benefits required for high-performance sunscreens or long-wear makeup.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Requires heat-assisted incorporation (60-75°C) into the oil phase. Stable within standard physiological pH ranges, but susceptible to hydrolysis in highly acidic (pH < 3.0) or alkaline (pH > 9.0) environments.

Synergies

  • Mineral UV filters (Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide)
  • Organic UV filters
  • Iron Oxide pigments

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly alkaline active ingredients
  • Aqueous-only systems

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Its high molecular weight precludes dermal penetration, making it an exceptionally safe, non-toxic, and non-sensitizing ingredient for topical use.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Moderate

Our Assessment

Valuable

An essential structural ingredient for achieving high-performance water resistance and pigment stability in advanced skincare and solar protection.


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