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C30-50 ACID.

Valuable / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

A high-molecular-weight, long-chain linear fatty acid that functions as a sophisticated structuring agent and occlusive shield. It is primarily utilized to enhance the physical integrity of formulations while providing a breathable, crystalline barrier on the skin's surface.

Occlusive Film Former Emulsion Stabilizer Viscosity Modifier Barrier Repair

Science

This ingredient organizes into a complex crystalline network within the oil phase of a formula, providing mechanical strength and preventing the separation of oils. Upon application, it forms a coherent film over the stratum corneum, reinforcing the natural lipid barrier to significantly inhibit moisture evaporation and improve the 'stay-on' time of topical actives.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vivo testing at a 2% concentration demonstrated a measurable reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) through the formation of a crystalline barrier.
  2. 02 Technical evaluations confirm that concentrations between 1-5% maintain formulation integrity in temperatures up to 50°C, ensuring product stability in extreme environments.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

While often used as a background stabilizer, concentrations below 1% may fail to provide the significant film-forming and moisture-retention benefits observed in clinical data. In precision skincare, it should be present at 2% or higher for therapeutic barrier support.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Requires precision heating to 95-105°C for proper integration. It is highly resistant to oxidation due to its fully saturated chemical structure.

Synergies

  • Anhydrous systems
  • Mineral UV filters
  • Low-molecular-weight emollients

Conflicts

  • Cold-process manufacturing
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Its large molecular size prevents skin penetration, making it non-toxic and ideal for compromised or sensitive skin barriers.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An essential ingredient for achieving thermal stability and long-lasting moisture retention in high-performance barrier repair and long-wear formulations.


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