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C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE/POLYCYCLOHEXENE OXIDE CROSSPOLYMER.

Valuable CAS 330809-27-3 / 389082-70-6 / FILM FORMING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

An advanced, high-molecular-weight silicone network engineered to provide a sophisticated sensory profile and structural integrity to high-performance skincare. It serves as a specialized thixotropic agent that balances velvet-like aesthetics with functional film-forming capabilities.

Texture Enhancer Optical Blurrer SPF Booster Viscosity Controller Skin Protectant

Science

This crosspolymer forms a breathable, non-occlusive structural mesh on the skin's surface. Its unique branched alkyl chains allow for superior compatibility with organic oils, creating a 'cushion' effect that physically fills fine lines while simultaneously scattering light to produce an immediate soft-focus, blurring finish.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–20%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated a significant increase in SPF efficiency at 3% concentration by optimizing UV filter distribution and film uniformity.
  2. 02 Achieved profound sensory enhancement and long-lasting 'velvet' skin feel at concentrations ranging from 2% to 20%.
  3. 03 Confirmed shear-thinning (thixotropic) behavior at 1-5%, facilitating easier application and superior spreadability of viscous creams.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because this ingredient is often used for its 'label appeal' to suggest a premium texture, it is frequently included at sub-functional levels (under 1%). In precision skincare, levels should reach at least 2-3% to provide tangible blurring and SPF-boosting benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 11
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resilient and heat-stable; suitable for cold-processing. It effectively thickens the oil phase in both anhydrous systems and emulsions.

Synergies

  • Organic UV filters
  • Non-polar emollient oils
  • Mineral pigments

Conflicts

  • Highly polar lipids (potential for gel network destabilization)
  • Extreme pH environments outside the 3.0-11.0 range

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Assessed under the CIR 'Dimethicone Crosspolymers' group. While safe up to 10% in leave-on eye and face products, it is fundamentally non-reactive and inert.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An essential architectural ingredient for achieving a refined, soft-focus finish and improving the uniformity of active ingredients like sunscreens.


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References