Get a Free 5ml Mini Now Free 5ml Mini With Every Order of The Mantle
Moumoujus

C30-45 ALKYL CETEARYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER.

Valuable CAS 443892-05-5 / FILM FORMING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A sophisticated silicone elastomer designed to bridge the gap between high-performance skin protection and luxury aesthetics. This specialized crosspolymer acts as a versatile texture enhancer that delivers a velvety finish while reinforcing the skin's moisture barrier.

Summary

Texture Enhancer Barrier Protection Soft-Focus Agent Emulsion Stabilizer Film Former

Science

Mechanism of Action

This high-molecular-weight polymer creates a 'fish-net' structured film on the skin's surface that is uniquely breathable and non-occlusive. Its alkyl-modified structure allows it to seamlessly integrate with organic oils, effectively filling in fine lines to create a soft-focus effect while improving the dispersion of active ingredients like SPF filters and pigments.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–33%
Optimal

4%

Key findings

  1. 01 In Vitro-Skin substrate testing, blends featuring this crosspolymer reduced Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) from 45 g/hm² to 10 g/hm², providing barrier protection comparable to petrolatum without the associated greasiness.
  2. 02 A survey of 25 cosmetic formulations identified 4% as a standard ceiling for significant sensory improvement and emulsion stability in leave-on products.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

While often used at low levels for texture, concentrations below 1% may fail to provide the significant barrier-reinforcing and soft-focus benefits observed in clinical data.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 11
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resilient across extreme pH ranges; notably used to stabilize oxygen-sensitive actives like Pure Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) in anhydrous systems. It can withstand processing temperatures up to 85°C.

Synergies

  • L-Ascorbic Acid
  • Mineral UV Filters (Zinc Oxide/Titanium Dioxide)
  • Petrolatum
  • Organic Waxes

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly polar water-based phases without secondary emulsification

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
4%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Extensive HRIPT testing confirms the ingredient is non-sensitizing and non-irritating. Manufacturing controls ensure residual monomers remain strictly below safety thresholds.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A precision-engineered texture and barrier agent that enables the formulation of high-potency actives without compromising on skin feel or breathability.

Related

Similar Ingredients

Finding similar ingredients…

References

Sources