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C29-70 ACID.

Valuable CAS 222400-14-8 / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A high-purity complex of long-chain fatty acids that serves as a structural lipid for superior skin barrier reinforcement. It effectively mimics the skin's natural lipid matrix to lock in moisture and stabilize complex formulations.

emulsifying viscosity controlling emollient barrier repair

Science

By forming a breathable, hydrophobic film across the epidermis, C29-70 Acid creates a physical seal that prevents transepidermal water loss. It integrates into the stratum corneum's lipid bilayer, filling gaps in the skin barrier while simultaneously providing structural integrity and viscosity to emulsions.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated efficacy in barrier-repair formulations by reducing TEWL through the mimicry of natural skin lipids at concentrations between 0.5% and 5.0%.
  2. 02 Proven to act as a significant anti-irritant in high-alcohol hydroalcoholic systems at 1.0% to 3.0%, preserving skin comfort without compromising product performance.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.2%

Because this ingredient is frequently used for its functional role as a thickener and emulsifier, it is rarely 'dusted'; however, for clinical barrier repair benefits, it should be present at 0.5% or higher.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Possesses high thermal stability with a melting point between 80°C and 95°C. Requires precise heating during the oil phase for uniform distribution.

Synergies

  • Ceramides
  • Sterols
  • Glycerin

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly alkaline environments (saponification risk)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Classified as non-sensitizing and non-irritating even at the upper limits of typical cosmetic usage.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional structural lipid that provides essential barrier protection and formula stability with an excellent safety profile.


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