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C20-40 ALKYL STEARATE.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A high-performance synthetic ester wax engineered to provide structural integrity and moisture retention in skincare formulations. It serves as a sophisticated occlusive agent that delivers a smooth, velvety finish without the heavy or greasy residue typical of traditional waxes.

Occlusive Emollient Viscosity Controller Film Former Emulsion Stabilizer

Science

By forming a lightweight, breathable film on the stratum corneum, this ingredient significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and bolsters the skin's natural barrier. Its high melting point (80-86°C) and structural properties also act to stabilize complex emulsions and improve the thermal resistance of stick-based products.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 2–10%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Technical evaluations indicate superior film-forming capabilities that enhance water repellency and provide a long-lasting skin-feel at concentrations up to 10%.
  2. 02 Human testing via 48-hour Single Insult Occlusive Patch Test (SIOPT) confirmed the ingredient is non-irritating at concentrations between 3% and 5%.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
2%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because this ingredient is primarily used for structural 'body' and texture, it is rarely 'dusted' at negligible levels; however, concentrations below 2% may not provide the intended barrier-reinforcement benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resilient in both acidic and alkaline environments. Its high melting point ensures product integrity during temperature fluctuations.

Synergies

  • Non-polar emollients
  • UV filters (for water resistance)

Conflicts

  • Highly polar solvents
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
8%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel supports its safety in leave-on products, specifically noting its use in lip products up to 8%.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity High

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional structuring agent and barrier-booster for dry and sensitive skin, though its high comedogenicity makes it unsuitable for acne-prone profiles.


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