Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions by establishing a crystalline network within oil-based phases, which increases the mechanical strength and thermal stability of a product. On the skin, it acts as a non-occlusive film-former that mitigates transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and assists in the uniform distribution of pigments.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Manufacturer technical evaluations (NuCera) demonstrate that concentrations of 2-5% significantly improve the hardness and 'slip' of stick-based cosmetics.
- 02 A 2019/2021 CIR Safety Assessment involving Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT) confirmed that a 5% concentration is non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a structuring agent, using this ingredient below 2% in stick formats often results in poor physical stability and product breakage, suggesting a functional rather than marketing-led inclusion.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly heat-stable with a high melting point between 90-100°C. It is used to prevent melting or sweating in emulsions and anhydrous sticks under high-temperature conditions.
Synergies
- Lipid-based emollients
- Mineral pigments
- Hydrophobic UV filters
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizers
- Highly alkaline environments (potential for saponification)
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel considers long-chain aliphatic acids safe for cosmetic use, particularly in leave-on eye and lip preparations where they are most common.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A precision structuring agent that ensures product durability while offering protective barrier benefits across all skin types.
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References
Sources