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Moumoujus

C20-28 ALKYL PERFLUORODECYLETHOXY DIMETHICONE.

Valuable CAS - / FILM FORMING

A high-performance hybrid silicone-fluorinated wax engineered to provide extreme durability and resistance to both water and sebum. It functions as a sophisticated film-former that stabilizes pigments and UV filters, ensuring long-lasting protection and a refined sensory finish.

Summary

film forming viscosity controlling emollient waterproofing agent pigment stabilizer

Science

Mechanism of Action

This molecule employs a tripartite architecture: C20-28 alkyl chains ensure seamless integration with cosmetic oils, while perfluorodecylethoxy groups create a low-surface-tension barrier that repels external moisture and natural oils. The dimethicone backbone anchors the structure, forming a breathable, non-tacky matrix that locks active ingredients in place and prevents formula migration.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–10%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated superior oil and water repellency at 0.5-5% concentrations compared to standard dimethicones, significantly extending the wear-time of UV filters.
  2. 02 Technical analysis shows concentrations of 1-10% act as a structural agent, increasing thermal stability and preventing phase separation in pigment-heavy emulsions.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

As a functional texturizer and film-former, it is effective at levels as low as 0.5%. Usage below 0.1% likely provides no measurable benefit to formula longevity or stability.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Thermally robust with a melting point between 65-75°C. Exhibits excellent stability within the physiological pH range of standard skincare.

Synergies

  • Mineral UV filters (Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide)
  • Iron Oxide pigments
  • Non-polar hydrocarbon oils

Conflicts

  • High-concentration aqueous phases without robust emulsifiers
  • Highly polar esters may require specialized coupling agents for full clarity

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
15%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While topically safe and non-irritating, it is classified as a PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substance), leading to increasing scrutiny regarding environmental persistence and restrictions by certain global retailers.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An elite functional ingredient for enhancing formula longevity and environmental resistance, though its PFAS classification may concern eco-conscious consumers.

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