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C20-22 ALKYL PHOSPHATE.

Valuable CAS - / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A sophisticated anionic emulsifier and film-former that creates a protective, breathable shield on the skin's surface. It is engineered to deliver a velvety matte finish while significantly enhancing the stability of complex skincare formulations.

emulsifying surfactant barrier protection texture enhancer

Science

By organizing into lamellar liquid crystals (LLCs), this ingredient mimics the natural lipid bilayer of human skin. It forms a 'matte velvety veil' that locks in moisture by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and shields the epidermis from external stressors such as pollution and water exposure.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–3%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical HRIPT assessment on 49 subjects confirmed the ingredient is non-sensitizing even at 5% concentrations.
  2. 02 In vivo testing at 1-3% demonstrated significant water resistance and protective film-forming properties suitable for anti-pollution claims.
  3. 03 Structural analysis confirms the formation of lamellar liquid crystals at 2-3%, providing superior skin barrier mimicry.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

As a functional emulsifier and barrier support agent, concentrations below 1% typically fail to provide the structural lamellar benefits or the intended mattifying film-forming effect.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 6 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Requires neutralization with an alkaline base to reach its full emulsifying potential. While stable between pH 3.0 and 12.0, the most robust emulsions are formed in the 6.0-7.0 range.

Synergies

  • Physical sun filters (Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide)
  • Moisturizing lipids
  • Humectants

Conflicts

  • Cationic surfactants
  • Polyquaterniums
  • Strongly acidic environments

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
3%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel considers it safe in current cosmetic practices; concentrations up to 5% have been clinically tested for safety.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional biomimetic emulsifier that provides essential barrier support and a sophisticated matte finish for high-performance skincare.


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