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C20-22 ALKYL GLUCOSIDE.

Valuable / BINDING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A green, plant-derived emulsifier that facilitates the creation of sophisticated liquid-crystal emulsions. It is specifically engineered to provide a matte, 'second skin' finish while fortifying the cutaneous barrier through biomimetic structural alignment.

emulsifying barrier restructuring texture enhancing moisturizing

Science

This ingredient organizes itself into lamellar liquid-crystal networks that replicate the natural lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum. By forming this biomimetic structure, it significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and creates a reservoir-like effect that optimizes the delivery of both oil and water-soluble active ingredients into the skin.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vivo testing at 1-5% demonstrates sustained hydration for up to 5 hours post-application and restructuring of the skin's lipid barrier.
  2. 02 Clinical HRIPT testing on 5% concentrations of related alkyl glucosides confirms a lack of dermal irritation or sensitization.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

As a functional emulsifier, it is rarely 'dusted' in the traditional sense, but using it below 1% may sacrifice the formation of the lamellar network required for its signature 'second skin' barrier benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits exceptional stability across a broad pH spectrum; highly compatible with oxidative agents like hydrogen peroxide and self-tanning actives such as DHA.

Synergies

  • Lipophilic actives
  • Hydrophilic actives
  • DHA (Dihydroxyacetone)

Conflicts

  • High electrolyte concentrations
  • Strong anionic surfactants in high ratios

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel supports its safety based on its relationship to other alkyl glucosides; it is non-irritating when formulated correctly.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional emulsifier for precision formulations requiring a matte aesthetic combined with clinically-proven barrier support.


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