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C18-38 ALKYL HYDROXYSTEAROYL STEARATE.

Valuable CAS 222722-18-1 / EMULSION STABILISING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A high-performance synthetic polyester wax engineered to mimic the occlusive properties of beeswax while offering superior texture stability. It functions as a sophisticated structuring agent that creates a resilient, non-tacky moisture barrier on the skin's surface.

Emollient Film Former SPF Booster Viscosity Controller Emulsion Stabilizer

Science

This ingredient acts as a crystal-growth inhibitor, preventing the 'blooming' or crystallization of other waxes to ensure a perfectly smooth application. It forms a flexible, breathable film that anchors active ingredients—particularly UV filters—while suppressing transepidermal water loss through its refined lipid structure.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–20%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated to significantly boost SPF values at 3-15% concentrations by optimizing the homogeneity of UV filter distribution.
  2. 02 Identified as an effective emollient for reducing TEWL and stabilizing emulsion architecture at 1-15%.
  3. 03 Validated as a non-sensitizing primary structuring agent in lip care at 20% for prolonged hydration.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

This ingredient is typically used at functional levels (1-20%) to achieve specific textural or SPF-boosting objectives; concentrations below 1% generally fail to provide the required structural or barrier benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resistant to oxidation and hydrolysis; features a high melting point (80-90°C) which provides excellent thermal stability for stick and balm formats.

Synergies

  • Mineral UV filters
  • Chemical UV filters
  • Vegetable waxes

Conflicts

  • Cold-process formulations (requires heating to 85°C+)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
20%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Classified under the CIR safety assessment for Fatty Acids and Fatty Acid Salts; noted for its lack of sensitization even at high concentrations.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An essential precision wax for optimizing the distribution of sunscreens and providing long-wear moisture without comedogenic risk.


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