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C18-38 ALKYL C24-54 ACID ESTER.

Valuable CAS 223706-22-7 / VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A sophisticated, high-molecular-weight synthetic wax ester designed to mimic the structural properties of natural beeswax. It serves as a robust emollient and structural agent that enhances formula texture while providing a protective moisture barrier on the skin's surface.

Emollient Viscosity increasing agent Skin conditioning Emulsion stabilizer

Science

It functions by forming a breathable, structured occlusive film that effectively mitigates transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Due to its unique 'plastic' physical properties, it provides structural integrity to formulations, preventing oil migration and stabilizing emulsions for a consistent delivery of active ingredients.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.7–25%
Optimal

1.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Repeat Insult Patch Testing (RIPT) on 198 subjects confirmed the ingredient is non-sensitizing at 0.7%.
  2. 02 Extended RIPT studies involving over 500 subjects demonstrated no sensitization or ocular irritation at concentrations of 1.5%.
  3. 03 A 4-week clinical use test on 40 subjects showed zero adverse reactions when applied at 1%.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.7%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because this ingredient is primarily used for its structural and emollient properties, it is rarely 'dusted' for marketing purposes; its presence is usually functional. Concentrations below 0.7% may indicate a negligible impact on the formula's texture and barrier-forming capabilities.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3.5 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Highly chemically inert and resistant to oxidation. It remains stable across standard cosmetic pH ranges but may undergo hydrolysis if exposed to environments exceeding pH 9 at elevated temperatures.

Synergies

  • Lipids
  • Plant oils
  • Mineral UV filters

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
25%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel reviewed this as part of a 237-alkyl ester safety assessment, concluding it is non-irritating and safe for cosmetic use.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptionally stable and non-irritating structuring agent that provides superior barrier protection and formula elegance for dry and sensitive skin types.


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