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C18-36 ACID GLYCOL ESTER.

Valuable CAS 94944-95-3 / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A synthetic wax-like ester that serves as a high-performance consistency regulator and emollient in precision skincare. It is specifically engineered to provide structural integrity to formulations while leaving a breathable, protective veil on the skin surface.

Emollient Emulsion Stabilizer Viscosity Controller Skin Conditioner

Science

It creates a structured crystalline network within the oil phase of a product, which stabilizes emulsions and prevents oil separation. On the skin, it functions as a non-occlusive emollient, reinforcing the lipid barrier to mitigate trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) without a heavy or greasy residue.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 2–6%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Technical evaluations demonstrate that at a 3% concentration, this ester significantly enhances viscosity and emulsion stability in anti-aging systems without inducing irritation.
  2. 02 Studies in anhydrous stick formulations show that levels between 2% and 6% effectively prevent syneresis (oil bleeding) and maintain product structural integrity.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

As a functional texture modifier and stabilizer, it is rarely 'dusted' for marketing claims; its presence is typically required at functional levels (above 1%) to achieve the desired formula viscosity and stability.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Possesses a high melting point (70-75°C) and superior oxidative resistance compared to natural waxes, making it ideal for high-viscosity creams and stick-form products.

Synergies

  • Lipophilic actives
  • Mineral sunscreens
  • Plant oils

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Extreme pH environments (below 4 or above 9) which may trigger ester hydrolysis

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Last reviewed by the CIR Expert Panel in 2021 as part of the Glycol Esters group; confirmed safe within current cosmetic practices.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A highly stable, versatile texturizer that provides essential structural support to formulas while offering gentle barrier protection for all skin types.


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References