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C14-28 ISOALKYL ACID.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING

A high-performance biomimetic lipid that replicates 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA), the essential fatty acid responsible for the skin's natural hydrophobic shield. This branched-chain fatty acid reinforces the moisture barrier with a sophisticated, non-greasy skin feel that outperforms linear lipids.

Emollient Skin-conditioning agent Barrier repair Hydrophobic film former

Science

It functions by integrating into the gaps of the intercellular lipid matrix, effectively 'sealing' the skin surface to prevent moisture loss. By mimicking the structure of 18-MEA, it restores the skin's natural water-repellent properties and protects the underlying layers from environmental aggressors and irritants.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–2%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 2020 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science showed that concentrations between 0.5% and 2.0% successfully replenish surface lipids to enhance skin texture and smoothness.
  2. 02 Research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019) demonstrated that a 1.0% concentration significantly lowers transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and repairs the lipid layer in compromised skin models.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

While often used in hair care, its inclusion in skincare at levels below 0.5% may fail to provide the barrier-restoration benefits observed in clinical settings. High-quality barrier repair formulas should utilize it at 1% or higher.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resistant to oxidation due to its saturated branched-chain structure. It remains stable in neutral to slightly acidic environments but is prone to saponification in highly alkaline conditions.

Synergies

  • Ceramides
  • Cholesterol
  • Squalane

Conflicts

  • Heavy metal ions
  • High pH environments (>8.0)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
58%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel considers it safe for cosmetic use when formulated to avoid irritation, even at concentrations far exceeding standard skincare use.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional biomimetic lipid for precision barrier restoration, specifically for dry and compromised skin types.


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