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C12-18 ALKYL GLUCOSIDE.

Valuable / EMULSION STABILISING

A plant-derived, non-ionic surfactant and emulsion stabilizer that provides gentle cleansing and structural integrity to skincare formulas. It is valued for its ability to create smooth textures without the harshness associated with traditional sulfate-based cleansers.

emulsion stabilizing surfactant cleansing agent

Science

This ingredient functions by reducing the surface tension of liquids, allowing oil and water to mix effectively. Upon application, it is hypothesized that skin enzymes (glucoside hydrolases) break it down into natural glucose and fatty alcohols (C12-C18), which are then integrated into the skin barrier's metabolic processes.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–11%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Local Lymph Node Assay (LLNA) identified potential sensitization at 8.4% concentrations, though related C12-16 variants showed no sensitization in Buehler guinea pig trials at 20%.
  2. 02 Comprehensive toxicity reviews indicate that alkyl polyglucosides are generally non-irritating when formulated at concentrations below 30%.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

As a functional surfactant and stabilizer, it is rarely 'dusted' for marketing claims; rather, it is used at functional levels (often 1-5% in leave-on products) to ensure formula stability and texture.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5.3 – 7.4
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits superior colloidal stability and remains photostable. Unlike many surfactants, it does not form a cumbersome gel phase during dilution, facilitating easier manufacturing.

Synergies

  • Fatty alcohols
  • Other non-ionic surfactants

Conflicts

  • Extremely low pH environments
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
11%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Safe for cosmetic use when formulated to minimize irritation. While historically cited up to 11%, modern leave-on industry standards typically cap active levels at 5% to ensure maximum skin tolerance.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A highly reliable and gentle multifunctional ingredient that excels at stabilizing sophisticated emulsions while respecting the skin barrier.


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