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C12-17 ALKYL KETENE DIMER.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING, HAIR FIXING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACE MODIFIER

A sophisticated bionic lipid designed to replicate the protective properties of human sebum. This specialized surface modifier creates a breathable, hydrophobic shield that reinforces the skin's natural barrier against environmental stress.

Skin conditioning Barrier repair Surface modification Moisture retention

Science

Utilizes a unique lactone ring structure to integrate with surface proteins and lipids, forming a biomimetic film. This physical reinforcement stabilizes the lipid bilayer, effectively locking in moisture while preventing the ingress of external irritants.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical trials conducted by Shanghai Jahwa and Ruijin Hospital involving over 5,000 subjects demonstrated that this ingredient, as part of Phyto-bionic Sebum (PBS) technology, significantly reduces transepidermal water loss and alleviates symptoms of clinical skin sensitivity.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because it is often used as part of a specialized technological complex (PBS), it is frequently included at therapeutic levels (1-5%) in barrier repair formulations; concentrations below 0.5% may not provide the intended bionic shielding effect.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 5 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable in lipid-rich, waxy emulsions; however, it is susceptible to hydrolysis in highly acidic environments (low pH).

Synergies

  • Phytosterols
  • Ceramides
  • Free Fatty Acids

Conflicts

  • Strong acids
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Recognized by OECD SIDS for low acute toxicity and minimal bioaccumulation potential. It is officially listed in the EU CosIng and US TSCA databases.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance biomimetic lipid essential for repairing compromised skin barriers and providing long-lasting hydration.


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References