Science
Mechanism of Action
Functions as an ester carrier that undergoes enzymatic hydrolysis on skin contact, gradually releasing lactic acid to provide mild keratolytic action while the alkyl component delivers non-comedogenic emollient properties. Additionally regulates sebum production in oily skin types and enhances dispersion of UV filters and pigments in color cosmetics.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrates mild keratolytic and moisturizing effects suitable for anti-acne and anti-aging applications with minimal irritation potential
- 02 Effective enzymatic active for odor control through inhibition of malodor compound formation
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Not typically subject to dusting practices due to its specialized dual emollient-exfoliant function and specific formulation requirements for stability.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maximum stability achieved at neutral pH (6-7) to prevent premature ester hydrolysis, though remains functional down to pH 3.5 for safety compliance
Synergies
- Avobenzone
- Pigments
- Other AHAs
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Extreme pH conditions above 8 or below 3
Safety
Safety Profile
CIR-reviewed in 1998 and 2013 under Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Simple Esters categories. Safe at ≤10% concentration with formulation pH ≥3.5.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A well-engineered multifunctional ingredient that delivers controlled exfoliation with emollient benefits, particularly suited for oily and acne-prone skin formulations.
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References
Sources