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C10-40 ISOALKYL ACID.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A biomimetic fatty acid complex derived from lanolin that functions as a sophisticated lipid barrier repair agent. This branched-chain saturated fatty acid mixture mimics natural skin lipids like 18-MEA, effectively filling gaps in the intercellular cement to restore barrier integrity. Its unique molecular structure provides exceptional stability while delivering targeted emollient and skin-conditioning benefits.

emollient skin-conditioning viscosity controlling barrier repair

Science

Functions as a biomimetic lipid replenisher by mimicking the complex lipids found in skin's intercellular cement and hair's protective cuticle layer. It systematically fills gaps in the lipid barrier structure, preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while re-hydrophobicizing compromised surfaces to restore smoothness and barrier resilience.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.01–0.18%
Optimal

0.15%

Key findings

  1. 01 CIR Safety Assessment demonstrating safety and efficacy as skin-conditioning agent at concentrations below 0.18%
  2. 02 ResearchGate study showing sustained moisture retention and reduced surface friction in cuticle repair applications

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.05%
Red flag below
0.02%

Rarely used as dusting ingredient due to its specialized barrier repair function and oil-soluble nature requiring proper formulation


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Exceptionally stable against oxidation and thermal degradation due to saturated, branched molecular structure. Provides stabilizing benefits to pigments in oil-based formulations.

Synergies

  • ceramides
  • cholesterol
  • other barrier lipids

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
0.18%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

CIR Expert Panel concluded safety when formulated to be non-irritating. Maximum 0.18% applies to standalone acid form; derivatives may be used at higher concentrations up to 8%.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Moderate

Our Assessment

Valuable

A scientifically-backed biomimetic lipid that offers specialized barrier repair benefits for dry and compromised skin types.


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References