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C10-40 HYDROXYALKYL ACID CHOLESTEROL ESTERS.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A sophisticated biomimetic lipid complex that replicates the natural cholesterol esters found in healthy skin barriers. This engineered molecule forms liquid crystal structures identical to those in the stratum corneum, delivering targeted barrier repair and moisture retention.

emollient skin conditioning viscosity controlling barrier repair

Science

Functions as a structural lipid mimic that integrates directly into the skin's barrier architecture. The cholesterol backbone combined with hydroxy acid chains (C10-40) self-assembles into lamellar bilayer structures that seamlessly replace damaged lipid components, reducing transepidermal water loss while enhancing barrier integrity.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–5%
Optimal

2.5%


Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%

Expensive specialty ingredient with clear efficacy thresholds makes dusting economically unfavorable and functionally ineffective


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Excellent stability in standard formulations but vulnerable to ester hydrolysis at pH extremes below 3.0 or above 9.0

Synergies

  • ceramides
  • fatty acids
  • other barrier lipids

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizing agents
  • extreme pH environments

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

CIR Expert Panel approval under alkyl esters and cholesterol categories with typical usage 0.1-5.0% in leave-on products


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A scientifically sophisticated barrier repair ingredient that delivers measurable results through true biomimetic action rather than simple occlusion.


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