Science
Mechanism of Action
Acts as an enzymatically-activated prodrug that releases glycolic acid upon contact with skin esterases. The liberated AHA disrupts corneocyte adhesion in the stratum corneum to promote exfoliation while stimulating dermal fibroblasts to increase production of collagen, elastic fibers, and glycosaminoglycans for structural skin improvement.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Patent research by Van Scott & Yu demonstrated substantial increases in skin thickness and dermal protein synthesis at 1-10% concentrations
- 02 Clinical evaluation at 5-10% showed measurable improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, and photodamage through enhanced epidermal turnover
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As an active exfoliating agent with established concentration ranges, dusting is less common due to efficacy requirements at meaningful percentages
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Requires careful temperature control during processing to prevent transesterification or glycolide formation; maintains stability in acidic formulations at ambient temperature
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Strong bases
Safety
Safety Profile
Approved for retail use up to 10% at pH ≥3.5; professional treatments may use up to 30% with pH ≥3.0 for brief applications; mandates sunburn alert labeling due to photosensitization potential
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A scientifically-backed AHA precursor offering controlled exfoliation benefits, though requiring careful formulation and unsuitable for sensitive skin types.
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