Science
Mechanism of Action
Creates a lightweight lipid barrier on skin surface to reduce transepidermal water loss while activating cellular proteasomal systems that break down tyrosinase enzyme, potentially influencing melanin production and skin pigmentation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Patent study (WO2015061512A1) showing proteasomal activation and tyrosinase degradation at 0.01-10% concentrations
- 02 Formulation research demonstrating emollient properties and moisture retention enhancement at 5-10% levels
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Primarily used as a functional emollient and plasticizer rather than a marketing ingredient, making dusting unlikely
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Exhibits superior oxidative stability compared to unmodified castor oil due to acetylation. Maintains integrity under standard heat and light exposure with high boiling point and minimal volatility.
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Strong acids
- Strong bases
Safety
Safety Profile
FDA-approved as indirect food additive (21 CFR 175.105, 177.2600, 177.2800). Generally recognized as safe for cosmetic use up to 10% in leave-on products based on current usage practices.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A competent emollient with moderate comedogenic potential that offers reliable moisture retention but lacks standout differentiating benefits.
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References
Sources