Science
Mechanism of Action
Functions by delivering oleic, stearic, and linoleic acids directly to the stratum corneum to rebuild compromised lipid barriers. Creates a semi-occlusive protective film that reduces transepidermal water loss while simultaneously replenishing intercellular lipids for enhanced skin flexibility and moisture retention.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 HRIPT testing at 1% concentration demonstrated non-sensitizing and practically non-irritating properties
- 02 Clinical formulations at 1-10% show significant barrier recovery and moisture improvement versus traditional shea forms
- 03 Safety validated up to 100% concentration in leave-on moisturizers with no reported allergic reactions
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Legitimate multifunctional ingredient with substantiated barrier repair benefits; not typically used for label padding given meaningful concentrations required for efficacy
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Thermally stable at ambient conditions but degrades above 60°C during processing. Requires protection from light and moisture during storage to prevent oxidation.
Synergies
- ceramides
- cholesterol
- other barrier lipids
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- extreme heat exposure
Safety
Safety Profile
CIR Expert Panel concluded safety up to 100% in leave-on products. PEGylated versions limited to 10% based on ocular tolerance data.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Well-substantiated barrier repair ingredient with excellent safety profile, though moderate comedogenicity limits use in acne-prone formulations.
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References
Sources