Science
Mechanism of Action
Contains bioactive triterpene esters including lupeol and amyrins that inhibit collagenase and elastase enzymes to preserve structural proteins. Functions as a phytoceramide by replenishing lipid barrier components and reducing transepidermal water loss. Suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1α, IL-6, and IL-8 while decreasing MMP-3 expression to prevent photo-aging and calm irritation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.5%
Key findings
- 01 0.5% concentration increased dermal papilla collagen levels by 6% with ceramide-like anti-inflammatory effects in eczema treatment
- 02 0.3% triterpene-rich extracts reduced MMP-3 expression by over 50% in keratinocytes
- 03 10-15% concentrations boosted SPF values by up to 35% and enhanced photostability of UV filters
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Given meaningful clinical effects at 0.3-0.5% concentrations, formulations below 0.1% would likely provide minimal barrier repair or anti-inflammatory benefits
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Exhibits high stability but requires antioxidant protection due to fatty acid oxidation susceptibility. Melting point at 37.8°C enables easy incorporation at body temperature.
Synergies
- Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
- other antioxidants
- chemical UV filters
Conflicts
- strong oxidizing agents
- highly alkaline environments above pH 8
Safety
Safety Profile
CIR Expert Panel 2017 assessment confirmed safety in current usage practices. Extract typically used at 0.5-5% while parent butter approved up to 100%.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A clinically-validated multifunctional ingredient with demonstrated barrier repair, anti-inflammatory, and photostabilizing properties across a wide concentration range.
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References
Sources