Science
Mechanism of Action
By organizing into lamellar liquid crystalline gel networks (LCNs), it creates a biomimetic structure that mirrors the skin's natural lipid bilayer. This molecular arrangement enhances the delivery of actives, reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and provides a persistent, velvety protective film on the stratum corneum.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1.5%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated significant improvements in skin elasticity and moisture retention following ultraviolet exposure in human clinical trials.
- 02 Validated as a safe, non-irritating concentration for leave-on dermal applications, providing optimal skin feel and barrier support.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a primary emulsifier and texture modifier, it is typically used at functional levels (1.5%+) rather than trace amounts. Use below 1% in emulsions may indicate its inclusion for marketing claims rather than structural performance.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly thermally stable with a melting point of 60-75°C. Naturally acidic (pH ~3.5), it requires neutralization with L-Arginine to reach skin-compatible pH levels.
Synergies
- Fatty alcohols
- L-Arginine
- Glycerin
Conflicts
- Anionic surfactants (SLS/SLES)
- Xanthan Gum
- Carbomers
- Anionic proteins
Safety
Safety Profile
While not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, it is ECOCERT and COSMOS approved and has been cleared by NICNAS for use up to 5% in topical formulations.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional bio-based alternative to traditional silicones and synthetic cations, providing measurable barrier support and a premium sensory profile.
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References
Sources