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Moumoujus

BRASSICAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE.

Valuable CAS - / HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

A sophisticated, plant-derived conditioning agent sourced from brassica oil that serves as a high-performance, sustainable alternative to traditional quaternary ammonium compounds. It functions as both a skin-smoothing cationic emulsifier and a moisture-retaining film former, providing targeted substantive hydration.

Summary

Skin conditioning Emulsifying Antistatic Hair conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

This molecule undergoes protonation in acidic environments (pH 3.5–6.5), developing a positive charge that allows it to electrostatically bond with the negatively charged keratin on the skin surface. This substantivity enables the formation of lamellar liquid crystal structures, which reinforce the skin barrier and stabilize the emulsion for controlled ingredient delivery.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–3%
Optimal

1.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluation of quat-free formulations at 1.5%-3.0% demonstrated superior immediate moisturization (15 minutes post-application) and comparable 24-hour hydration levels compared to standard commercial benchmarks.
  2. 02 Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT) at 0.5%-2.0% indicate the ingredient is well-tolerated with low irritation potential when formulated correctly.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.2%

Typically used at functional levels (1-3%) to achieve necessary emulsion stability and texture. Percentages below 0.2% are insufficient to provide the characteristic cationic conditioning or structural integrity required for high-performance skincare.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 3.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Initially oil-soluble, it must be neutralized with organic acids such as Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, or L-Aspartic Acid to become water-dispersible and cationically active. It is highly stable within its optimal acidic pH range.

Synergies

  • Lactic Acid
  • L-Aspartic Acid
  • Fatty Alcohols (for lamellar phase stabilization)
  • Glycerin

Conflicts

  • Anionic surfactants
  • Nitrosating agents
  • High pH environments (>6.5)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Safety is contingent on minimizing the impurity dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA). Formulas must avoid nitrosating agents to prevent the formation of nitrosamines.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptional bio-based cationic agent that offers superior immediate hydration and skin-smoothing effects through its unique ability to electrostatically bond with the skin surface.

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